KUALA LUMPUR – In the heart of Kelantan’s capital, a quiet culinary revolution is brewing. At KB Brewster, a local café situated along Jalan Bayam, the air is thick with a scent that is both nostalgic and modern: the sweet, smoky aroma of traditional akok mingling with the robust, earthy notes of freshly pulled espresso.
This unlikely marriage of flavors has birthed the “Akokpresso,” a contemporary reimagining of a heritage delicacy that is currently captivating the palates of locals and coffee aficionados alike.
The Akokpresso is the brainchild of 40-year-old entrepreneur Ruzzahairieirkwan Mohammed. While many traditionalists might hesitate to alter a centuries-old recipe, Ruzzahairieirkwan saw an opportunity for innovation seven years ago while looking for ways to diversify his menu ahead of the busy Ramadan season.
“The idea was to bridge the gap between two worlds,” he explained to Bernama. “I wanted to offer something that honored our Kelantanese roots but appealed to the growing coffee culture in the region.”
The journey from concept to final product was one of trial and error. To prevent the strong coffee flavor from masking the signature egg-and-coconut-milk richness of the akok, Ruzzahairieirkwan spent years refining the recipe. Today, he uses a strictly guarded ratio of 50 milliliters of espresso to every one liter of batter, ensuring the coffee serves as a complementary high note rather than an overwhelming base.
What sets the Akokpresso apart from a mere novelty is the craftsmanship behind the coffee itself. Ruzzahairieirkwan does not use instant powders or generic beans; instead, he selects a sophisticated blend of beans sourced from Brazil, Indonesia, and Colombia.
- Brazilian beans provide a nutty, chocolatey base.
- Indonesian beans offer body and earthiness.
- Colombian beans add a bright, aromatic finish.
“The beans have to be carefully chosen so the coffee complements the sweet, rich akok without overshadowing its traditional flavor,” Ruzzahairieirkwan noted. The result is a pastry that offers a sophisticated “bittersweet” profile—a stark contrast to the purely sugary profile of the classic version.
Despite the artisanal approach and the use of premium imported coffee beans, the café has kept the Akokpresso accessible to the general public. Priced at just RM1 per piece, the snack has become a viral sensation among regulars.
Daily production now averages around 200 pieces, requiring the kitchen to process at least two full trays of eggs every morning to meet the demand. For those who still crave the original experience, KB Brewster continues to offer the traditional akok nisey (made with palm sugar), which remains a staple for the more conservatively inclined.
The success of the Akokpresso serves as a blueprint for how traditional Malaysian “kuih” can evolve in a globalized world. Ruzzahairieirkwan believes that by introducing modern elements like espresso, heritage foods can be “refreshed” and introduced to a younger, more cosmopolitan demographic without losing their cultural soul.
As the Ramadan season approaches, KB Brewster is bracing for an even higher influx of orders, proving that when it comes to tradition, a little bit of caffeine can go a long way in keeping history alive.
