KUALA LUMPUR – In the heart of Cebu’s bustling IT Park, the air is thick with the savory, pungent aroma of shrimp paste and caramelizing soy sauce. For many local residents, this scent has become a new daily ritual, signaling the start of a culinary journey across the Sulu Sea. What began as a modest endeavor by a former overseas worker has transformed into a vibrant cultural bridge, as authentic Mi Goreng and Nasi Lemak capture the palates of a city traditionally more accustomed to local Filipino fare.
The visionary behind this flavorful revolution is 45-year-old Ban Ismail. Ban is not just a chef; he is a storyteller whose medium is the wok. Having spent 20 years living and working across various parts of Malaysia, he returned to the Philippines with a deep-seated mastery of Malay soul food that can only be acquired through decades of immersion.
Upon his return, he established BJ’s Creamyrice Warung Nasi Lemak at the Sugbo Sentro IT Park. His mission was simple yet ambitious: to recreate the exact flavors he grew to love during his two decades in Malaysia. However, the early days were not without their hurdles. In a region where pancit (Filipino fried noodles) is a staple, many locals initially dismissed his Mi Goreng as just another variation of a dish they already knew.
“They said it was the same as pancit,” Ban recalled during an interview with Bernama. But the skepticism didn’t last long. “One person tried it, then brought their friends, and now sometimes we simply cannot keep up with the overwhelming demand.”
The hallmark of Ban’s success is his unwavering commitment to authenticity. He refuses to “localize” the recipes to the point of losing their Malaysian identity. To achieve the specific depth of flavor required for a true Mi Goreng, Ban insists on using Ayam brand soy sauce, a household name in Sabah and throughout Malaysia.
He explained that using standard Filipino soy sauces, while high in quality, results in a completely different flavor profile that lacks the distinct sweetness and “wok hei” associated with Malaysian street food. This dedication to sourcing specific imports ensures that every plate served in Cebu tastes as if it were prepared in a bustling medan selera in Kuala Lumpur.
While the noodles are a runaway hit—selling between 80 to 90 plates daily—the iconic Nasi Lemak presented its own set of challenges. The soul of Nasi Lemak lies in the sambal, a spicy chili paste that requires fully ripe, large red chilies. Because these specific chilies are often difficult to source in local Cebuano markets, Ban has had to innovate, subtly adjusting his recipe by adding tomatoes to achieve the right consistency and color without sacrificing the heat.
Ban’s menu offers a variety of price points to cater to everyone from office workers on a budget to foodies looking for a premium experience. His Special Mi Goreng is priced at 149 pesos (approximately RM12.70), while a Regular portion is accessible at just 65 pesos (around RM5.50).
His Nasi Lemak offerings are equally competitive, with the Chicken Nasi Lemak priced at 130 pesos (RM11.00) and the Fish version at 135 pesos (RM11.50). For those seeking variety, he also serves Seafood Fried Rice for 110 pesos, alongside Malaysian favorites like Nasi Goreng Pattaya and Nasi Goreng Kampung, both priced at 99 pesos (around RM8.50).
The business operates on a grueling schedule, staying open from 10:00 AM until 4:00 AM the following morning to serve both the daytime office crowd and the late-night BPO (Business Process Outsourcing) workers. Despite the long hours and significant overhead costs—with rent and utilities alone totaling roughly 20,000 pesos (RM1,700) per month—Ban remains content with his modest profits.
For him, the business serves a higher purpose. As a Muslim, Ban felt a responsibility to provide halal food options to the local community, a service that is often limited in certain parts of the Philippines. By providing a space where everyone can enjoy a meal that is both culturally rich and religiously compliant, he is doing more than just selling food—he is fostering inclusivity.
As the Philippines prepares to take its place on the regional stage as the ASEAN Chair for 2026, stories like Ban Ismail’s highlight the power of “food diplomacy.” Through a simple plate of noodles and coconut rice, he is proving that the flavors of Southeast Asia are a language everyone can understand.
